Sunday 22 July 2012

Pakse, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang, Laos, 23 - 27 June 2012

After the slight disappointment of Don Det and the 4000 Islands, we began the long slog all the way North again. This started with a boat across the Mekong to land which then docked on a rubbish covered bank instead of the dock for some reason, so we wobbled off the teetering skiff with our big bags, and sweated our way to the minibus to take us to Pakse. We arrived at the bus station at 3pm, but our sleeper bus wasn't to leave until 8pm, so we left our bags and wandered off in search of a cafe or restaurant to chill out for a few hours. Somehow the beds on the sleeper bus seemed to have shrunk further, but I managed to get us put onto a bed made for abnormally skinny and tall people, but it at least meant I could stretch out my legs. As we'd already taken this journey, we knew how bad it was, and we weren't disappointed; I don't think it was a metalled road for more than 5 minutes of the 10 hours. Finally got into Vientiene at 6ish, then booked ANOTHER bus to Vang Vieng at 10.30am which was well overbooked, so a dozen of us sat on the side of the road to wait "15 minutes" until 12.30 for the next one. After a lot of travelling we finally rolled into a rainy Vang Vieng at 4ish. Jo remembered the name of some place from a chat with the Israelis, so we checked it out and got a huge room with air con for next-to-nothing after a bit of haggling. We had a late lunch in our old haunt Central Backpackers whilst Jo ummed and ahhed over when we should leave for Luang Prabang while I watched Friends and made committed and concerned noises. The weather was rainy and crap, so we (Jo) decided we'd get the bus the next morning. We had every intention of going to Bucket Bar that evening for free buckets and a bit of a party, but the weather coupled with the travelling made us really dozy, so after a drink and a pancake we chilled out in the room listening to music. After an unremarkable bus journey, we got to Luang Prabang in the afternoon, and after some bargaining and looking at rooms, we decided to go back to Oudomlith where Mike greeted us and showed us to our old room again. We relaxed, showered, wandered around the night market, and went down the cheap food street for a massive dinner for 80p. The next day was Jos birthday, but we'd agreed no presents, so we started the day with breakfast baguette and smoothie, then we hired some bikes and cycled around the town looking at more Vat and That that we'd missed (temples), then got some cake for lunch, but even with all the French influence, Laos people can't quite do cakes. We both got a massage, and that night we went to a restaurant for the first time in ages for dinner (courtesy of Kristina) before a bit of birthday shopping on the night market. Jo was a little apprehensive she'd feel homesick or not enjoy her birthday, but we were in the best place for it and she had a great day. Next day we did very little, lots of popping out to get food, or do washing and stuff, and we booked our bus tickets to Hanoi (flights were too expensive). Despite doing so little, it was another really nice day, Luang Prabang is such an easy place to pass the time. Spent another evening walking the night market looking for some trousers for Jo, (she didn't find any, just another dress). The 27th was our last day in Laos, and we arranged with Mike that we could have our room until 5pm as our bus wasn't until 6pm. We lounged around all morning drinking coffee, packing our bags, and watching James Bond. The day was a real scorcher, so we spent the day in perpetual movement between the astonishingly humid streets and the cool air-con solace of the room. We took a tuk-tuk to the bus station and eyed up our new home for the next 24 hours to Hanoi!

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