Thursday 13 March 2014

Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands, Malaysia – 4/2/14 - 7/2/14


The map
Locals posing



Up good and early in Melaka and took bus direct to Cameron Highlands (another beautiful, comfy coach). As we got closer, we wound our way up into the hills and through tea plantations, and past waterfalls. Got kicked out at the charming little town of Tanah Rata, which is basically a town congregated around the main road that winds its way further through the hills.
Tandoori dinner
We fobbed off the hawkers trying to take us to accommodation so far out we needed to take their minibus, and went to a place just off the main road which was dirty cheap because it was just that; dirt. Great atmosphere, loads of open circulation areas to sit and chat with others, and we had a “special dorm” which was a
Anyone seen Harry Potter?
small room off the dorm. It was actually more of a cupboard, and all of the dorms were in the attic, but by the bounce of the floors, they didn’t bother to doing any reinforcement first. Our bed was also just a mattress on the floor. Despite all of this, it was private, and not swarming with creepy crawlies, so we were happy as Larry.

Our hike took us through this
Didn’t do a whole lot first day, just got our bearings, got the low-down on the hiking routes, and chatted. Had some amazing dosa and tandoori chicken for dinner.


Corny picture
Didn’t sleep spectacularly well as bloke in room one side was pushing heavy furniture around all night, and on the other side was a grizzly bear. Well, I assume this due to the amount of noise they made. Even normal earplugs wouldn’t cut it and had to get out the silicon specials. It was also really cold. This was a bit of a shock as we knew it would be cooler due to the altitude, but the night was freezing! Both slept wrapped in blankets, trousers and hoodies.

The park
Got some grub and set about walking. I’d nicked a map off of a bloke leaving that morning, and had a plan which rolled a few sights and 3 routes into one circular route. I started feeling a bit dodgy, so stopped off for brief loo break in the next town, then went to a strawberry farm, and from there we had to find a route that started and would take us through forest for a few hours and take us back to Tanah Rata. Could I find it? Could I buggery. The bloody map was two years old, and it was the newest revision available, but there was now a huge development going on which had messed around the roads, so we couldn’t find the start of the track. We walked around the development hoping for a bit of luck, but just saw a load of new homes, and what looked like a load of plant levelling a mountain and forming a quarry at its base next door.
Luckily, we
Shot on my cheapo f1.8 Pentacon lens
stumbled across some German lads coming off the trail who sent us in the right direction. We were now about 2 hours behind plan, and it took a good 45 minutes to get to the start of the trail. I couldn’t guarantee we’d be back before dark, so I took us along a remote windy track around the hills which would get us to
Strawberries and cream
Tanah Rata a lot quicker. This somehow took us through the middle of another huge development. Massive swathes of forest had been ripped up, and scores of tractors and plant were moving and levelling earth, while teams of guys were reinforcing the remainder of the hill-face with spraycrete. Got some funny looks as two hikers would do walking through effectively a quarry, but they let us through. Got us back to town, Jo did some pull-ups in the park, and played around on some huge (and somewhat incongruous) fibreglass fruit and vegetables. Had some scones and tea for afternoon tea.

Went to the same Indian place for dinner, which is where it all started to go wrong…
View from mountain

Tea plantations
Day didn’t start well when I awoke and went to the loo three times in ten minutes. I didn’t feel confident enough to leave the hostel for breakfast, let alone go on a tour we’d booked to the mossy forest, up a mountain and to a tea plantation, so I had to stay in bed watching movies on the laptop and dozing. Strangely, one of the snorers in the next room snored all day as well as night. I resolved that it must be a tape someone was playing on a loop to wind me up, but you think that’s me being paranoid… but you would think that, you’re all out to get me!
Finally ate a piece of toast in the evening, but felt weak as a kitten. I put it down to the Indian food, as it is all cooked in a lot of palm oil, and very heavy, which I’m not used to.

Sunrise departure
Day 4 was a bit of a waste as I was still weak, and Jo was content to arrange photo-albums online while I read and listened to music. Had a bit of a final walk around town, and was a bit sad to leave without taking full advantage of the hikes, but there will be other places to hike, and I was happy I’d seen as much as possible.
Early next morning I got some photos of sunrise whilst stood on a giant lettuce (best place to get a good shot) before we boarded a bus to Ipoh.

No comments:

Post a Comment